If you mean wood bow and wood arrows, then try your local outdoor gun range, ask and see if they have a black powder shooters club, those boys usually have an archery club thats in the black powder shooters club, and they will teach you everything you need to know about archery , from how to build bows , to shooting them,even making your own arrows.
archerdude
February 8, 2010 at 10:59 pm
So you want to take up Traditional Archery…. Well, “traditional” means many things in the world of Archery. Let’s just go with the basics….
First, you need to decide whether you want to use a recurved bow or a longbow; recurved bows are the ones with the limb tips which are curved away from you as you use the bow. Since “traditional” bows do not have “let-off”, you will be holding all of the draw weight at full draw; if the bow is “40 lbs”, you will have to be able to hold the string back with 40 lbs of force (there are a few exceptions to this, but those bows are generally considered “exotic”).
Then you need to decide what kind of arrows you want to use; the choices are wood, aluminum, and carbon-fiber (as long as the bow is “traditional”, you can use any kind of arrow you want). There is also a choice of fletching for the arrows, but “traditional” normally means feather fletching. Of utmost importance, though, is that your arrows must be made specifically for your bow and yourself: they have to be strong (and flexible) enough for the bow’s draw weight at your draw length AND be long enough for your draw length AND be heavy enough to efficiently use the bow’s energy without being too heavy for practical use.
“Traditional” most often means using a glove or tab, as well. The glove normally covers only the tips of the first three fingers of the “string hand” (the one used to pull the string back); the tab is normally a piece of leather which acts as a pad between the string and fingers, and is “split” so the arrow nock can be placed between the first and second fingers. As with choosing a bow and type of arrows, choosing whether to use a glove or a tab is up to you.
“Form” is easy enough to learn, if you are patient enough to not constantly change the way you do things. The good part is that you have some lee-way in how you actually do those things — as long as you are consistent in doing them. If you feel that one thing you are doing is not working out, change it a little…but give it a couple of weeks to settle in before deciding that it still doesn’t work.
Practice can be done in a basement or garage, if there is room for it. I happen to have a small outdoor range just off my driveway. Look in your local phone book for archery stores; many of them have indoor ranges.
Laws happen to change, sometimes frequently, and they are not always the same from one area to another, so you need to check with your local law enforcement and/or government agencies; what is legal in one town may not be in another town — even though they are in the same county.
I hope this helps. If you have questions that need answers, I will do what I can to give you the answers you need.
elkboy75
February 8, 2010 at 11:41 pm
First you need to choose what style of bow you would like and how much you want to spend. I own both a long bow and a re-curve so I can give you a little incite on the differences. A long bow is a little slower than a re-curve and takes a little more practice to get good . Also you tend to need a little more draw weight( in my opinon) than a re-curve to make up for it. Your physical conditioning will decide that for you. Get a bow you can easily draw. The more you shoot the easier it will become and if you get serious you can allwaall wayso a heavier bow later.
You need to find a bow that fits your draw length. To find this hold your grip hand straight out and measure from the v in your thumb joint to either the corner of your mouth or the base of your ear lobe . this is the spot or anchor point that you will draw tom every time you draw your bow. A good archery shop will be able to help you with this.
Once you get set up with your equipment you need to work on your form. I practice with a target about 10 yards away and shoot about 5 0r 6 times. Don’t worry about aiming too much just worry about drawing your bow consistantly to your anchor point smoothly everytime, hold, and release by simply opening your fingers. When you have mastered the mechanics of it then worry about grouping. don’t shoot to much at one time either, tired muscles are not consistant.
Also if you can shoot in your yard buy a good high density foam target and a 4×8 sheet of ply wood to put behind it in case you miss and you will miss many many times.practice everyday if you truly want to get good. It’s great excercise and alot of fun. Hope you do it.
Call your local sherrif’s office they should be able to tell you if you can practice in your yard or not. If they can’t help you they should be able to tell you who can.
If you mean wood bow and wood arrows, then try your local outdoor gun range, ask and see if they have a black powder shooters club, those boys usually have an archery club thats in the black powder shooters club, and they will teach you everything you need to know about archery , from how to build bows , to shooting them,even making your own arrows.
So you want to take up Traditional Archery…. Well, “traditional” means many things in the world of Archery. Let’s just go with the basics….
First, you need to decide whether you want to use a recurved bow or a longbow; recurved bows are the ones with the limb tips which are curved away from you as you use the bow. Since “traditional” bows do not have “let-off”, you will be holding all of the draw weight at full draw; if the bow is “40 lbs”, you will have to be able to hold the string back with 40 lbs of force (there are a few exceptions to this, but those bows are generally considered “exotic”).
Then you need to decide what kind of arrows you want to use; the choices are wood, aluminum, and carbon-fiber (as long as the bow is “traditional”, you can use any kind of arrow you want). There is also a choice of fletching for the arrows, but “traditional” normally means feather fletching. Of utmost importance, though, is that your arrows must be made specifically for your bow and yourself: they have to be strong (and flexible) enough for the bow’s draw weight at your draw length AND be long enough for your draw length AND be heavy enough to efficiently use the bow’s energy without being too heavy for practical use.
“Traditional” most often means using a glove or tab, as well. The glove normally covers only the tips of the first three fingers of the “string hand” (the one used to pull the string back); the tab is normally a piece of leather which acts as a pad between the string and fingers, and is “split” so the arrow nock can be placed between the first and second fingers. As with choosing a bow and type of arrows, choosing whether to use a glove or a tab is up to you.
“Form” is easy enough to learn, if you are patient enough to not constantly change the way you do things. The good part is that you have some lee-way in how you actually do those things — as long as you are consistent in doing them. If you feel that one thing you are doing is not working out, change it a little…but give it a couple of weeks to settle in before deciding that it still doesn’t work.
Practice can be done in a basement or garage, if there is room for it. I happen to have a small outdoor range just off my driveway. Look in your local phone book for archery stores; many of them have indoor ranges.
Laws happen to change, sometimes frequently, and they are not always the same from one area to another, so you need to check with your local law enforcement and/or government agencies; what is legal in one town may not be in another town — even though they are in the same county.
I hope this helps. If you have questions that need answers, I will do what I can to give you the answers you need.
First you need to choose what style of bow you would like and how much you want to spend. I own both a long bow and a re-curve so I can give you a little incite on the differences. A long bow is a little slower than a re-curve and takes a little more practice to get good . Also you tend to need a little more draw weight( in my opinon) than a re-curve to make up for it. Your physical conditioning will decide that for you. Get a bow you can easily draw. The more you shoot the easier it will become and if you get serious you can allwaall wayso a heavier bow later.
You need to find a bow that fits your draw length. To find this hold your grip hand straight out and measure from the v in your thumb joint to either the corner of your mouth or the base of your ear lobe . this is the spot or anchor point that you will draw tom every time you draw your bow. A good archery shop will be able to help you with this.
Once you get set up with your equipment you need to work on your form. I practice with a target about 10 yards away and shoot about 5 0r 6 times. Don’t worry about aiming too much just worry about drawing your bow consistantly to your anchor point smoothly everytime, hold, and release by simply opening your fingers. When you have mastered the mechanics of it then worry about grouping. don’t shoot to much at one time either, tired muscles are not consistant.
Also if you can shoot in your yard buy a good high density foam target and a 4×8 sheet of ply wood to put behind it in case you miss and you will miss many many times.practice everyday if you truly want to get good. It’s great excercise and alot of fun. Hope you do it.
Call your local sherrif’s office they should be able to tell you if you can practice in your yard or not. If they can’t help you they should be able to tell you who can.